U ... krai ... eeena
Ukraine 1 v England 1
UEFA EURO 2024 Qualifiers Group C
Saturday 9 September 2023
Played at Tarczynski Arena Wroclaw, Poland
Ground Tick #448
Polish Beer Ticks up to 19
My 152nd England Away game
"Oy. Why did you celebrate and stuff. With flares and shit. It was only a one all draw fuck sake. Embarrassing."
So said a younger English guy, to a fella draped in a Ukrainian flag, on the tram away from the game. Fair enough. The English lad had just seen his team drop their first points in qualifying. Fair enough. After a lively enough start, he'd seen the performance of his team fall off into nothing happening territory. Fair enough. He's had an absolute skinful of ale. Fair enough. He's going to be a little bit disappointed and frustrated. Fair enough.
But, he's missed the point. For the English lad, this was a football occasion. He's bewildered as to why the U … krai … eeena chants have continued incessantly. And wondered why the Ukrainian Pyro has gone up. But, this was not a football occasion for the forty thou Ukrainians in a ground on the outskirts of the Polish city of Wroclaw. For them, this was an OCCASION. A chance, one of the only chances they'll get at the moment, to get together, in safety, and be with their friends, their family and their Football Firms. A chance to be a fucking Ukrainian, with other Ukrainians.
Put the flags up. Let the chants go. Put the fucking Pyro up. Me and the pissed English lad (and, remember, fair enough, he's a vital part of this show an' all) were privileged to be in the ground and in the town with 'em. Слава Україні!, Slava Ukraini!.
(Postscript: We flew to Glasgow the morning after the game. The English lad and his two mates were also in the airport. A bit more sober now. Indeed, sobering up very quickly. As they'd missed their flight and were trying to find the cheapest way to repatriate.)
This was a Ukraine home game. But … for reasons … it had to be played in Poland.
I was in the Dnipro Arena in 2009 (Ukraine won 1-0). I was in the NSC Olimpiyskiy Stadium in Kyiv in 2013 (nil nil that one). And, Ukraine hosted the Carrier Bag Firm/Horrendous Lemons in the 2012 UEFA Euros. Including a game against Ukraine in The Donbass Arena in Donetsk. For those 2012 games in Donetsk, we stayed out on the Sea of Azov, in Mariupol. Fucking Google that now for the latest. Just over a decade ago this. Fuck Sake.
My Ukrainian cousins will have to forgive me. But, the Beer Hunting had to be Polish Beer Hunting at this, a Ukrainian home game. Over our time in Wroclaw, I pushed the Polish Beer Ticks up to 19.
There's what I will dismissively call - a modern craft beer scene - in Wroclaw.
PINTA Wrocław
Podwale 83, 50-414 Wrocław
Was the home of maaaaaany hazy IPAs. And, the home of the Polish Collab. A bright and light, order at the bar gaff. With tables and deckchairs out the back in a garden shared with neighbouring restaurants. Fourteen of their own on. Plus eight guests.
PINTA, Collab with Sofia Electric Brewing (Bulgaria), Hazy Discovery Sofia, Hazy IPA on Keg at 6.5%
Idaho 7, Strata, Mosaic.
AleBrowar
Pawła Włodkowica 27, 50-072 Wrocław
That was another great Beer focussed gaff. Order at the bar loveliness. Thirteen on. By this stage, I was hazed out. Needed a Pilsner (or similar), man.
AleBrowar, Baltycki Dziad Pils on Keg at 4.8%
That'll do. Barley Sugar from the Tuck Shop sweet. Bit of funk. Great balance.
Browar Stu Mostów, Brewery & Taproom
Jana Długosza 2, 51-162 Wrocław
This, famous in the West, brewery has a number of outlets. Including one at the football ground. We chose the main event and got the tram out to the brewery. The Taproom was up the stairs, overlooking the kit. But, it was fucking hot enough in Wroclaw without sitting on top of some big, boiling brew. So, we sat in the increasing darkness of the courtyard.
Browar Stu Mostów, American IPA on Keg at 6.8%
Lovely. Some caramel sweetness. A bit of resin. And hoppy bitterness in the finish.
I'm afraid I can't let the beer blog close without mentioning two of my mates. One supports West Bromwich Albion. One supports West Bromwich Albion, but won't go to home games under the current ownership. In Szynkarnia, they had;
Browar Zakladowy, Co Bedzie W Lipcu
Described as MILD and served on CASK. Two lads from The Black Country. Sent to watch Ukraine, in Poland, by ATV Central Casting.
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